Vacherin
Enjoyed throughout parts of France and French-speaking Switzerland (and not to be confused with two cheeses of the same name), this meringue, fruit and cream cake reminiscent of pavlova is the perfect summer dessert.
It’s another of the many classic desserts linked back to the famous Parisian chef Marie-Antoine Carême, inventor of the croquembouche, mille-feuille, poufy chef's hat, and Coupe Romanoff, whose version of Vacherin Glacé is similar to the one prepared today.
However, there was also a Swiss version of the cake, made by Zuckerbäcker Giacomo Perini who published a recipe, enhanced with marzipan and wildly decorative (picture below), in 1893.
Perini’s whole book is scanned and available online at the Staats- und Universitätsbibliothek Dresden (SLUB). Photo retrieved from there.
I was not motivated to add marzipan, or make elaborate decorations, but if you are feeling ambitious, you could easily make some additional meringue swans or swirls for the top of the cake.
It requires a little patience to pipe and bake the meringues, but overall this cake is simple to make and even with simple flower and fruit decoration, is a real showstopper.
There are plenty of recipes in old cookbooks, including numerous versions from Elisabeth Fülscher, like vanilla cream, strawberry, or even chestnut Vacherin.
I’ve included both a whipped cream and an ice cream variation below—I like using whipped cream if I plan to serve it the same day and I know there probably won’t be any leftovers (this version doesn’t keep so well), and I use ice cream if I want to make it further in advance, or store it for longer.
For the meringue:
4 egg whites (140 g)
200 g sugar
1 tbsp vanilla paste, or 1/2 a scraped vanilla bean
For the strawberries:
600 g strawberries
1 shot gin
For a whipped cream filling:
300 ml cream
2 tbsp sugar
1 tsp vanilla paste or 1/2 a scraped vanilla bean
OR
For an ice cream filling:
500 g vanilla ice cream
Preheat oven to 150 C / 250 F / gas mark 2.
Line four baking sheets with parchment paper and draw a 23 cm (9 inch) circle on each.
In a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, start beating the egg whites on medium. Once they start to foam and thicken, you can begin to add the sugar a tablespoon at a time. Keep adding the sugar while the whites are beating. Continue until all the sugar is added and the whites are stiff and glossy.
Using a piping bag with a star tip 1 cm in diameter, pipe rounds—two filled in (for the base and top) and two rings.
Bake, leaving the oven door open slightly (you can wedge a wooden spoon in the door) for about 35-40 minutes or until the tops are dry and set. They are done when you are able to pick them up off the baking sheet without breaking them. Let cool completely.
While the meringues are in the oven, prepare the strawberries. Cut them in slices and place them in a bowl, pouring a shot of gin over top. Let sit. (If your strawberries aren’t particularly sweet, sprinkle over a tbsp of sugar).
For the whipped cream filling:
Add the sugar and vanilla to the cream and whip until quite firm.
For the ice cream filling:
Leave the ice cream on the counter for about 10 minutes before you are ready to assemble, so it gets soft enough to spread.
Assembly:
Place the meringue base directly on your serving plate, place one ring on top and spread with about half the cream or ice cream. Place the other ring on top of the first. Strain all the liquid from the strawberries, and scoop them on top of the cream or ice cream. Spread the rest of the whipped cream or ice cream over top, then place the meringue on top.
Place in the freezer until it firms up, about 1-2 hours.
Decorate and serve immediately.
If you anticipate leftovers, it is better to make this cake with ice cream, rather than whipped cream. Either way, store in the freezer, as storing the meringue in the fridge will make it soggy.
I like the strawberries with a shot of gin, but you could also use a liqueur like limoncello or Grand Marnier, or leave out the booze altogether.
Other soft fruits would work well too, like any kind of berry or sliced peaches.
Another Showstopper?
Zuger Kirschtorte
